Factory Resetting KT-19 Transmitter

The Mini-Z cars come with Kyosho KT-19 transmitters standard. This morning, I was playing the cars with my son when somehow, the transmitter became locked in full reverse and left turn. It may have something to do with the power switch being turned off while the car was moving. No matter what I did, once the car/transmitter communication was established, the car will start moving. There didn’t seem to be any mention of this in the manual, so after an hour or so of frustration, I decided to look through the forums. Turns out there’s a way to perform a factory reset, and it goes like this:

To reset the transmitter:
(1) Turn off the transmitter if it is on.
(2) Make sure that the steering trim knob is at the center position
(3) Turn the G.SPD L (speed limiter, right side) knob fully to the counterclockwise direction.
(4) Position of G.SPD H (LED control, left side) knob does not matter.
(5) Turn the steering wheel to the fully right position and push the throttle away to the full-brake position and hold them.
(6) Turn on the transmitter. The LED should flash rapidly; this means you are now in the factory mode.
(7) Release the steering wheel and throttle lever.
(8) Turn the steering wheel fully to the left, right, left and right, and then release it.
(9) Pull/push the throttle lever to full-throttle, full-brake, full-throttle, and full-brake, and then release it.
(10) Turn the G.SPD L knob to the right most position. The LED should become solid.
(11) Turn off the transmitter and on it again. You are done.

See more here:http://www.rctech.net/forum/micro-mini-scales/800127-mini-z-mr03-s-loss-signal.html

The transmitter was good as new right after the reset!


First Post: Mini-Z Introduction

Welcome to the Mini-Z Noob blog! I started this blog because I’ve fallen in love with Mini-Z, but find the information out there bewildering, to say the least. I hope to be able to cover the following topics here:

  1. Introduction to Mini-Z system;
  2. Driving principles;
  3. Hop-ups and their purposes;
  4. Short reviews of parts.

To get us started, I should introduce my cars. I bought two of these at the same time, namely a Subaru Impreza KX1, MR-03S chassis, and a Nissan 180SX MA-020S chassis. Both cars came fitted with the LED light kit, and although I had intended to get only the Nissan, the Impreza was going at a 20% discount and I couldn’t pass up. For the uninitiated (as I was a mere week ago!!), the MR-03S is the new two-wheel drive (2WD) chassis that, I was told, is more popular for racing on tracks. The MA-020S is the new all-wheel drive (AWD) drift kit, and can be driven indoors, like in a living room.

To power these babies, I purchased two sets of PN Racing 888mAH batteries, as well as an Ace 800mAH set. Of the two, the PN ones seem to be punchier and gives good performance till the end (but with a precipitous drop-off in power in the last minute of drive time), while the Ace batteries seem to run at 75% speed, and seems to run out sooner but more gradually.

Having driven the AWD quite a bit in the past week, I have already noticed some things that I don’t like, and will take some time to describe these in the next couple of posts. I have also placed orders for a large number of optional parts, and will, in due time, give reviews of these items. Stay tuned!